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Monday, May 17, 2010

Climbing Paradise

Kalymnos


During the last few years I heard the name pop-up so many times I was left with no choice but to finally visit.


(the island under sunset)
(view from my room)

I arrived at night and had no idea where I was. Kind of fitting really, since I awoke into a paradise of rock and sea. Essentially that’s all Kalymnos is - rock that came from the sea. The limestone has since eroded and formed some of the most impressive rock climbing sectors I have ever seen. Some of my photos do justice to the scale of these impressive areas, but they are best experienced by just standing beneath them. Almost every photo of a wall has a person for scale, so have fun trying to find them. (click to zoom)


(odyssey sector)

(silkati cave)
(arhi sector)
(rocklands sector)
(grande grotta, panorama, poets, kalydna, iannis sectors)



Climbing was a bit of a ‘culture shock’. Spending the last 4 years mainly bouldering and climbing below 20m of route length really wasn’t good preparation for those 40m that just didn’t seem to have an end. Suddenly I found myself with 15-20 quick-draws on my harness and a sore neck from leaning back so much. It took me a good week to get used to the style of climbing. The climbers call it ‘3D’ climbing. It’s simple really. You have to look behind you when go up due to the many, many, many stalactites that weave through some of the areas; a bruised head is not that uncommon.


(irox sector, christian pfanzelt on cuobo [7c])
(silkati cave)
(grande grotta)
(asian chick on DNA [7a+], grande grotta)
(me on Valley of Dolls [7c])
(stalactites at silkati cave)


They do however make for creative rest spots and it’s really fun looking at people trying to figure out how to rest. You can sit on them (cowboy style), hook your heel around them, jam a knee, lean against it, squeeze it between your thighs, hook your toes, etc... You’d think sitting on a stalactite would rest you completely ... well ... you’d be wrong ... and so was I :)


(resting on Trella [7a] - cowboy style)
(valley of dolls [7c])


The 50 something climbing areas on the island offer plenty of variety. From giant caves filled with stalactites to short & sharp slabs. The guidebook states that there is 20 years worth of work still needed in order to maximize Kalymnos’ full potential. The quantity of quality rock is just astonishing.


(crimping on slab - unknown 7b+, rockland sector)
(crimp + stalactite, unknown 7c - illiada sector)
(big wall climbing)

(christine on sevasti [7b+], iannis sector)


After about 10 days, my endurance stared to return and I got back into the grove of climbing. That’s when I started having fun. A lot of ground was covered but there are definitely a few routes that stood out:


O Draconian Devil - 8b+ [very weak]

Super Priapos - 8a+ - 55m!!! [weak but very fun]

Daniboy - 8a [weak]

Angelica - 8a [rp]

Marci Marc - 7c+ - 35m [rp]

Neska Polita - 7c+ [rp]

Priopos - 7c - 35m !!! [rp]

Cuobo - 7c [rp]

Valley of Dolls - 7c [os]

Themelina - 7c [os]

Spartacus - 7b+ [os]

Eros - 7b+ [os]

Sevasti - 7b+ [os]

Ivi - 7b [os]

Elia - 7b [os]

Lucky Luka - 7b [os]

DNA - 7a+ [os]

Trella - 7a - 40m [os]


(me on super priapos [8a+] grande grotta)
(barn-door on cuobo [7c])
(clipping on valley of dolls [7c] OS)
(resting on eros [7b+])


Unlike most, better known, Greek Islands, life on Kalymnos is very slow and relaxed. People are friendly and always keen to chat. Considering I came to the island alone, I don’t think I’ve ever socialized with such a diverse group of people. And you get to drive around on a scooter :)



(swimming spot at arhi sector)
(sometimes you need to rest it out, 1 of many bruised fingers)
(the greek islands are a mecca for sailing)
(traveling by boat between kalymnos and telendos - neighbor island)


Unlike most, better known, Greek Islands, life on Kalymnos is very slow and relaxed. People are friendly and always keen to chat. Considering I came to the island alone, I don’t think I’ve ever socialized with such a diverse group of people. And you get to drive around on a scooter :)


(scooter - 75 km/h max speed :) )


This was my first time on the island and everything I heard and saw couldn’t have prepared me for what I experienced. I hope it doesn’t take too long before I can return and I’m certain I will. As Antonis from the super market said:


“You belong to Kalymnos now.”